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Curtiss BF2C standart Hawk qiruvchi samolyotining tortib olinadigan asosiy tagligi bo'lgan birinchi xizmat versiyasi edi, lekin haddan tashqari tebranishdan aziyat chekdi va atigi bir yildan so'ng xizmatdan chetlatildi.
XF11C-3 prototipining asosi sifatida 5-ishlab chiqarish F11C-2 ishlatilgan. Fyuzelyajning pastki old qismi tortilgan g'ildiraklar uchun joy ajratish uchun kengaytirildi, ular uchuvchi tomonidan boshqariladigan zanjirli haydovchi yordamida ko'tarilib tushirildi. Prototip F11C-2 rusumli yog'ochdan yasalgan qanotlarini saqlab qoldi va 700 ot kuchiga ega Wright R-1820-80 siklonli dvigatelidan foydalandi. U 1933 yil 27-mayda AQSh Harbiy-dengiz flotiga topshirildi va tez orada yigirma etti F11C-3 ishlab chiqarish buyurtmasi bajarildi.
1934 yil mart oyida bu samolyotlar BF2C-1 (Kurtisdan ikkinchi bombardimonchi-qiruvchi) yangi nomi bilan etkazib berildi, 1934 yil sentyabr oyida birinchi parvozni amalga oshirgan birinchi samolyot. Ishlab chiqarilgan samolyotning metall ramkali qanotlari bor edi. -1820-04 dvigateli (dvigatellar "soatlab aylanib chiqqan"). BF2C-1 USS-da Squadron VB-5B bilan xizmatga kirdi Ranger (CV-4), lekin bu xizmat muddati juda qisqa bo'ladi. Qanotlar va dvigatelning o'zgarishi ishlab chiqarish boshlanishidan oldin sinovdan o'tkazilishi kerakligi tez orada ma'lum bo'ldi. Kruiz kuchi bilan uchayotganda, yangi dvigatel metall qanotlarda tebranishlarni o'rnatdi, bu esa samolyotni deyarli uchib ketmaydigan qilib qo'ydi. Metall qanotlarga BF2C-1 bilan deyarli bir xil bo'lgan, lekin qanotlari uchun yog'och ramka bo'lgan Curtiss Hawk III muvaffaqiyatining aybdorligi ko'rsatilgan.
Kurtiss va Dengiz kuchlari tebranish chastotasini o'zgartirish uchun qanotlarga og'irlik qo'shib muammoni hal qilishga urinishdi va tebranishning oldini olish uchun qanotlar orasidagi armaturani kuchaytirishga harakat qilishdi. Aniq echim metall qanotlarni yog'och qanotlarga almashtirish edi va bu bitta BF2C-1da sinovdan o'tkazildi, ammo dengiz floti bunga arzigulik emas deb qaror qildi. BF2C-1 1935 yil oktyabrdan 1936 yil fevralgacha almashtiriladigan samolyotlar mavjud bo'lganligi sababli xizmatdan olib tashlandi. BF2C-1 samolyotlari 1937 yilgacha bekor qilindi.
Dvigatel: Rayt R-1820-04 siklon
Quvvat: 770 ot kuchi
Balandligi: 31ft 6in
Uzunligi: 23 fut 0in
Balandligi: 10 fut 10 dyuym
Bo'sh vazn: 3,370 lb
Yuklangan vazn: 4,555 lb
Maksimal uchish og'irligi:
Maksimal tezlik: 225 mil / soat, 8000 fut
Toqqa chiqish tezligi: 2,150 fut/ min
Balandligi: 570 mil
Qurol -yarog ': 0,3 dyuymli ikkita Browning pulemyoti
Bomba yuki: bitta 474 lb yoki to'rtta 116 lb bomba
Odatdagidek men kokpit bilan boshladim. Men BF2C-1ning bu sohasi uchun juda kam ma'lumotli materialni topdim, lekin uning oldingi BFC-2 raqamli rasmlari bor. Endi ikkita versiya o'rtasidagi jismoniy farqlar raqamlash turidan ko'ra kattaroqdir: eng diqqatga sazovor tomoni, oldingi versiyada taglik o'rnatilgan, meniki esa tortib olinadigan. Ko'tarish va tushirish zanjirli haydovchini qo'l bilan o'rash bilan amalga oshirildi, lekin men bu tartib nimaga o'xshashligi va kokpitda qayerda o'tirgani haqida aniq ma'lumotga ega emasman. Fuselaj devorlariga qo'pol ichki tafsilotlar quyilgan (aniqrog'i), lekin bu fotosuratlardagidek ko'rinmasdi, shuning uchun men uni miniatyurali elektr matkapimda aylanadigan burma bilan kesib tashladim va nam va tozalagich bilan tozaladim. -quruq qog'oz (qoldiqlarni olib tashlash uchun nam, qog'oz va model tez -tez suv bilan yuvib turiladi).
Buni qilgandan so'ng, men o'rta boshli pichoq dastagiga o'ralgan abraziv qog'oz yordamida bosh suyagi orqasidagi ko'tarilgan korpus profilini o'zgartirdim. Men asosiy shaklni olish uchun qo'pol (100 grit) qog'ozdan boshladim, so'ngra asta -sekin silliqlashib, 600 grit bilan yakunladim. Fotosuratda o'zgartirilgan korpusning yarmi uning qarama -qarshi tomoniga biriktirilgan. Plastmassa juda nozik joylarga silliqlangan. Kokpit qopqog'ining slayd -relslari ham uzib tashlandi va men keyinchalik chizishga mos keladigan joylarni o'rnatdim. Panel chiziqlari Olfa-P kesgich yordamida ingichka guruch tasmasi yordamida kesilgan (Blu-Tack bilan ushlab turilgan) to'g'ri chiziq (to'g'ri qabul qilish juda qiyin va men buni yomon ko'raman).
Haqiqiy samolyotlarning fotosuratlarida kokpit ichida qandaydir metall konstruktsiyalar borligi ko'rsatilgan, lekin hech qanday stringer yoki mato qoplamasi yo'q, shuning uchun ular yupqa plastinka panellar bilan qoplanganga o'xshaydi. Panel ishlari asboblar paneli yonidagi kokpit maydoniga ham kiradi va, ehtimol, qurol -yarog 'va xo'roz mexanizmi ko'rinar edi, lekin ular men foydalanayotgan muzey eksponati fotosuratlarida ko'rsatilmagan. BF2C-1, menimcha, qurollar oldinga o'rnatilgan. Men ishlatilgan alkogolsiz idishlar panelini kesish uchun qog'oz shablonlardan foydalanardim. Shablonlar to'plam qismlariga yaqin bo'lguncha kesilgan. Panel ishlarining ko'p qismi port va sancak tomonlarida bir xil, shuning uchun bitta shablon kerak edi: chap va o'ng qo'l panelini yasashga yordam berish uchun portning bir tomonini P va sini Starboard uchun belgilang. xato bilan ikkita sancak panelini yasash, lekin hech kimga aytma)!
Har bir panelni alyuminiydan yasashda, avvalambor, ishlash uchun bankadan kattaroq bo'lakni kesib tashladim. Ba'zida bankaning egri chizig'i foydali bo'ladi, ba'zida esa yo'q. Egrilikni ko'pikli kauchuk ustiga qo'yib, uning ustiga rulon qo'yish orqali osonlik bilan o'zgartirish mumkin yoki bo'lakni tekis qilib qo'yish mumkin: men rulman sifatida o'rta o'lchamli X-Acto dastagidan foydalanaman. Bundan tashqari, bo'yoq / plastmassa qoplamani joyida qoldirish yoki uni zımparalash haqida qaror qabul qilishingiz kerak. Bo'yoq kalitini berish uchun men odatda uni ochiq qoldiraman va havo cho'tkasi bilan ishlayman. Biroq, siyanoakrilat yopishtiruvchi ishlov berilmagan sirtga yaxshi yopishmaydi, shuning uchun agar men kuchli yopishtiruvchi yopishtiruvchi qismlarni tayyorlayotgan bo'lsam, qoplamani olib tashlayman. Aytgancha, yopishqoq bug 'menga bir yoki ikki kun davomida yomon ta'sir qiladi, shuning uchun men bir seansda iloji boricha yopishtirishga harakat qilaman va o'zimni antigistaminlar bilan oldindan dozalashga harakat qilaman. Agar sizda grippga o'xshash alomatlar paydo bo'lsa (burunning jiddiy oqishi va aksirish), sizda ham xuddi shunday allergiya bo'lishi mumkin!
Qatlamli tikuvlar Humbrol Clear Cote bilan yopishtirilgan ingichka qo'rg'oshin folga chiziqlar bilan ifodalangan.
Gaz kelebeği kvadranti kabi tafsilotlar plastmassa qatlamlaridan qilingan. Tutqichlar - yumshoq temir sim yoki plastmassa. Tugmalar “ yuzlar va minglar ” dan, bu mening modellarim uchun qimmatbaho qismlarni olish uchun bolalar shirinliklarini iste'mol qilishim kerakligini anglatadi (ha, men sevimli mashg'ulotim uchun shahidman)! Umid qilamanki, ular bo'yoq davom etganda erimaydi ’t. O'ylaymanki, tafsilotlar kokpitga "Wallace" va "Grommit" ko'rinishini beradigan darajada keng ko'lamli yakunlandi, lekin bu unchalik yomon emas. Krank va zanjir haydovchisi sancak tomonidagi bo'sh joyda joylashgan edi (lekin menimcha, bu qarama -qarshi tomonda edi, shuning uchun uchuvchi pastki aravani o'rash bilan gaz kelebeği o'rtasida tayoqqa qo'lini o'zgartirishi shart emas edi).
To'plam bilan ta'minlangan asboblar paneli mening fotosuratlarimda hech narsaga o'xshamadi (lekin men bilganlarim uchun to'g'ri bo'lishi mumkin) va cho'chqa bo'yash uchun bo'lardi: men uni tashladim. Karta shabloni ehtiyotkorlik bilan kesilib, ikkita korpusning yarmiga joylashtirildi. Bu safar ichki profilning farqlari tufayli nosimmetrik bo'lmadi. Shunday qilib, u “front ” va “back ” deb belgilandi va ikkita yarmining o'rtasi to'g'ri chiziq bo'lishi uchun belgilandi. Bu kompyuter skaneriga joylashtirilgan va rasmlarni tahrirlash dasturiga yuklangan. BFC-2 raqamli fotosurati tanlandi va rasm burchagini to'g'rilash uchun cho'zildi / aylantirildi. Keyin uning nusxasi skaner qilingan shablon rasmiga mos kelish uchun kichraytirildi, bosib chiqarildi va plastmassani almashtirish panelidagi har bir o'lchagichning markaziy holatini belgilash uchun ishlatildi (aslida bu asboblar panelining markaziy, ko'tarilgan qismi edi) va har bir o'lchagich uchun teshiklar burg'ulashdi. Panelni varaqdan kesishdan oldin burg'ulashni bajaring. Bu qism juda quyuq kul rangga bo'yalgan va quritish uchun chetga surilgan.
Shaffof plastmassadan bo'lak kartochka shabloni shaklida kesilgan va bo'yalgan panelning orqa tomoniga yopishtirilgan. U o'lchagichlar uchun ham, korpusga yopishtiriladigan panelning orqa qismi uchun ham “glass ” ni ishlab chiqardi. Johnsons Klear qirralarning atrofiga va asboblar terisiga taralgan va quritilganidan so'ng janob Surfacer ko'tarilgan panelning tashqi chetiga surtilgan. Keyin panelning tashqi qismlari juda quyuq kul rangga bo'yalgan.
Keyin har bir asbob fotografik qog'ozga chop etildi va panelning orqa qismiga Humbrol Clear Cote yordamida biriktirildi. Keyin hamma narsani yopish uchun orqa yuzga bir qatlam surtilgan.
Tasavvur qiling: men bu qismni to'plamdan ham ishlatmaganman! Men tafsilotlarni qaerda bo'lmasin deb qaror qildim, shuning uchun men uni plastmassaga almashtirishni belgilash uchun ishlatdim. Tafsilotlar ingichka mis sim va buklangan alyuminiy idishlar yordamida qo'shilgan. Guruch va plastmassadan yasalgan bo'laklardan turli vallar va tayoqlar ishlatilgan. Men qaror qabul qila olmagan bir muhim narsa - korpusning pastki qismida derazalar bor -yo'qligi: prototipning fotosurati derazalar borligini ko'rsatadi, lekin to'plamda ular yo'q va ular ishlab chiqarish rasmlarida ko'rinmaydi. birliklar. Agar derazalar o'rnatilgan bo'lsa, unda hech qanday pol bo'lmaydi!
O'rindiqlar to'plami umuman to'g'ri ko'rinmaydi. O'rindiq panasi o'lchandi va yog'och bo'lagiga Milliyutdan yasalgan qolip qo'yildi. Men ishlatadigan plastmassaning qalinligi uchun etarlicha bo'sh joy qoldirib, kontrplakdan urg'ochi mog'orga to'g'ri kelishi uchun urg'ochi bo'lak kesilgan. Men plastmassani urg'ochi qolipga urg'ochi qolipga bog'lab qo'ydim va plastinkadagi teshikning chekkalarini belgilab qo'ydim, shunda men uni qolipga qo'yishim mumkin edi. Men plastmassani yumshatish uchun qanchalik issiq bo'lishi kerakligini bilmasdim: avvalambor qaynab turgan suvni sinab ko'rdim (deyarli issiq emas, namlik esa urg'ochi mog'orni deyarli buzib yuboradi!), Shuning uchun pechni ham vaqtni behuda sarflashga harakat qildim. Biroq, buni qilishning eng oson usuli - bu issiq tabancadan foydalanish. Muammo yo'q!
Kalıplama belgilangan va o'lchamiga kesilgan. Plastmassa detallari orqa va yon tomonlarga qo'shilgan.
O'rindiqning orqa ramkasi mis simdan egilgan va taxta plitasiga burilgan teshiklarga yopishtirilgan. Balandlik korpusning yarmi orasiga o'rnatilishi bilan o'rnatildi. O'rindiq paneli simli ramkaga mos kelishi uchun alyuminiy alkogolsiz ichimliklardan kesilgan. Chiziqlar va teshiklar mos yozuvlar fotosuratlariga muvofiq qo'shiladi. Yivlar birinchi navbatda teshiklarni burg'ilash orqali, so'ngra qo'l ushlagichidagi nozik burama burma yordamida shaklni kesish orqali qilingan. Ikkala uyani bir xil qilish juda qiyin va qiyin. Alyuminiyning qirralari o'tkir qilingan, shuning uchun ular simli ramkaga mahkamlanganda hech qanday qadam qoldirmaydi. Yelimlangandan so'ng, qirralar janob Surfacer 500 bilan ishlangan.
Rulda pedallari alyumin qutidan, plastmassadan va guruch simdan qilingan. Ishlatilgan ichimliklar qutilarini yaxshi ishlatish uchun qo'limdan kelgancha xursandman!
To'plam uning yoshini ko'rsatsa -da, u hali ham juda yaxshi. Men burg'ulash uchun teshiklarni belgilash bo'yicha ko'rsatma sifatida foydalanish uchun samolyotning yo'riqnomasi va fotosuratlariga asoslanib, takomillashtirish rejasini tuzdim. Teshiklarning markazlari skreter bilan kesilgan va teshiklari igna matkap ushlagichidagi 0,35 mm volframli bit yordamida burilgan. Plastik kvadratni burg'ulashdan boshlang, so'ngra burg'ulashni burchakdan oxirigacha to'g'ri ishlashi uchun kerakli burchakka buriling: bu matkapning sirpanish va chizish ehtimolini kamaytiradi. Plastmassaning qalinligi va burg'ulash burchagi ba'zan sayoz bo'lib, bu jarayonni sekin va nozik qilib qo'ydi va men tugatilishimdan oldin o'nlab burg'ulashlarni oldim!
Men gigant torini (taxminan 28swg atrofida) ishlatib tugatdim. Orqaga qarab, men teshiklarni kattaroq qilishim kerak edi (lekin biz ’ll bu haqda keyingi maqolada).
1-bo'limda tasvirlangan tirnalgan kokpit uchun qismlar (Yangilanishning yanvar ’s soniga qarang), korpusning yarmiga yig'ilgan, garchi hozircha pol yopishtirilmagan. Fuselaj qoliplari biroz buzilgan, shuning uchun ular qismlarga yopishtirilgan: avval orqa uchi (trubka yopishtiruvchi bilan) va mahkam ushlagach, old uchi suyuq poli bilan bog'langan. Qanchalik harakat qilsam ham, men hali ham yarmlar orasidagi noto'g'ri kelishuv bilan yakunlandim (odatdagidek)!
Kokpitning polini joyiga qo'yishdi va bir marta kvadrat qilib, suyuq poli bilan joyiga qo'yishdi. Kabin (markaziy) ustunlar yuqori qavatga o'rnatiladi va bu rul pedallari bir -biriga yopishtirilganidan keyin o'rnatiladi. (Bu tartib keyinchalik yuqori qanotni yig'ish va tekislashni alohida ustunlar bilan taqqoslaganda ancha oson va kuchliroq qildi, lekin biz o'zimizdan biroz oldinga intilamiz). To'plam to'liq o'rnatildi va diqqat uchuvchi yuzalarga qaratildi.
Qanotli yarmlarning juftlashgan yuzlari nam va quruq (nam ishlatilgan) varaqqa tekis silliqlangan. Keyingi qirralarning chiroyli va aniq bo'lishi uchun ba'zi hujjatlar kerak edi. Yuqori qanotlarning yarmi juda katta va banan ham bor edi. Men 2 mm plastmassadan nayzani kesib, uni pastki qanotning yarmiga yopishtirdim, qanotni tekis ushlab turdim, elim bir kechada quriydi. Shpalning yuqori qirrasi Dremel qistirmasi yordamida erga yotqizilib, yuqori qanoti bo'sh joy qoldirmasdan o'rnatiladi. Shunday qilib, qanot hali ham markazdan yuqoriga egilib turardi va shuning uchun butun mashq ikkinchi shpal bilan takrorlandi. Zerikarli haqida gapiring!
Aleronlar, liftlar va rulni qayta joylashtirish uchun qoliplardan kesilgan. Kesish Olfa-P to'sar yordamida amalga oshirildi, tashqi yuzadan boshlab, ichki yuzalarni kesish uchun qismni ag'darishdan oldin. Ichki kesmalarning holati qolipni kuchli nurda ushlab turish bilan belgilanadi, shunda siz tashqi tomondan kesilgan joyni ko'rasiz.
Yuqori va pastki yarmlar bir -biriga yopishtirilgan va undan o'ng va#8220pig ’s qulog'i yasalgan! Bitta muammo elim edi: men juda qalin quvurli elim ishlatardim va u chekkaning keng yuzalariga tarqalishdan bosh tortdi, shuning uchun bo'sh joy qoldirdi. Eng yomoni, yuqori qanot bir tekisda mahkamlangan va bir kunga qo'yilgan. Siqish bosimi juda katta edi va uning orqa qirralari ochilib ketdi. Yo'q, men baxtli quyon emas edim.
Endi, chetga. Ikki bit polistirolni yopishtirish bizning sevimli mashg'ulotimiz uchun juda muhim. Mening birinchi afzalligim - suyuq poli va men har safar bu qismlarni barmoq va bosh barmog'i o'rtasida ushlab turish va bo'g'imga kirish imkoni bo'lganida foydalanaman: faqat bo'g'in bo'ylab elim surting, bir oz kutib turing, so'ng mustahkam biriktirish uchun sekin siqib qo'ying. Agar ozgina erigan plastmassa chiqsa, juda yaxshi. Hammasini yaxshilab o'rnating va keyin ko'rinmas qo'shilish uchun qirqib tashlang.
Suyuq poli bilan bog'liq muammo shundaki, siz uni bitta bo'lakka qo'llay olmaysiz va keyin qismlarni birlashtira olmaysiz: narsalar juda tez bug'lanadi. Yana biri shundaki, agar siz uni tashqi tomondan cho'tkalash orqali ishlatsangiz (men Shiden modelining qanotlarida bo'lgani kabi), narsalar bosh barmog'ingiz va barmog'ingizni qidirish uchun panellar bo'ylab harakat qiladi. Agar siz Zimmeritni tugatishni xohlasangiz, lekin boshqacha emas. Shunday qilib, men bunday hollarda naychali elim ishlatardim va aloqa joyi unchalik katta bo'lmaganida (odatda uning chekkasida joylashganki), uning tarqalishiga yo'l qo'ymaydi. Qanotlarni bir -biriga yopishtirishga sharmandali urinishlarimdan va natijada o'zimni nochor his qilganimdan so'ng, eng yaqin do'stlarim jimgina gapirishdi va Revell Contacta yopishtiruvchi vositasini tavsiya qilishdi. Bu cho'tka bilan qo'llaniladigan suyuq poli, uni qismlarga yopishtiruvchi yopishtiruvchi kabi qo'yish mumkin, lekin u ancha nozik. Hayot hech qachon bunchalik yaxshi ko'rinmagan!
Rejaga qaytish. Yuzalar to'ldirilgan (men Magic-Sculp-dan foydalanishni afzal ko'raman) va silliq silliqlangan. Olfa-P to'sar uchun ko'rsatma sifatida Blu-Tacked guruch tasmasi yordamida panel chiziqlari qayta kesilgan. Ulardan ba'zilarini chalkashtirib yubordi, lekin men bu xatolarni tan olishni davom ettira olmayman! Qanotlari va dumi fyuzelyajga quruq holda o'rnatildi va mahkam o'rnashish uchun kerak bo'lganda qirqildi. Ular alohida bo'yalgan va keyinroq yig'ilgan bo'lar edi.
Fyuzelyaj, qanotlari va dumi alohida bo'yalgan va keyin yig'ilgan. Bo'yoq paytida yuzalarga tegmaslik uchun harakat qilayotgan bo'lsam, korpus korpusga o'rnatildi. Kokpit namlangan qog'ozli qog'oz yordamida niqoblangan va uni mustahkamlash uchun ozgina PVA elim qo'shilgan. Bo'yoqning oxirida niqobni cımbızla olishdan oldin namlash orqali olib tashlangan.
Metall yuzalar juda och kul rangga bo'yalgan va mato yuzalari alyuminiy bilan qoplangan, qanotning yuqorigi yuzi sariq va quyruq "yashil yashil" va "8221" dan tashqari. Men ochiq va quyuq ranglarni ajratib ko'rsatish va bo'yash uchun ishlatishni yaxshi ko'raman (bu mening rasm uslubim, lekin bu to'g'ri yo'l degani emas!) Va men kulrang panelladan boshladim va qaerda bo'lganimning rejasini tuzdim. ochiq va quyuq soyalarni bo'yash uchun ketadi. Asosiy rang White Ensign Models (WEM) Colourcoats RN03 ochiq kulrang edi. Humbrol 196 -ning eng engil ohanglari korpusning yuqori qismiga sepilgan va oraliq rang berish uchun ikkita bo'yoq aralashtirilgan. Humbrol 165 korpusga quyilgan soyani yuqori qanot va quyruq yuzasidan soya qilish uchun ishlatilgan, pastki yuzalar uchun Humbrol 140 qo'shilgan (shu jumladan qanotlarning pastki qismidagi panellar). Maydonlar o'rtasida yumshoq o'tish uchun kartadan kesilgan bo'shashgan niqob ishlatilgan.
Kulrang quriganidan so'ng, u niqoblangan va alyuminiy bilan qoplangan yuzalar püskürtülmüş: Metalcoat 27002 -da engilroq joylar, soya uchun 27004 qo'shilgan. Yana bo'shashgan niqob ishlatildi, uning qirrasi stringer bo'ylab joylashtirildi va havo cho'tkasi pastda engil surtildi. Fuselajning pastki qismidan boshlang va niqobni nam bo'yoq bilan aloqa qilmasligi uchun yuqoriga qarab ishlang. Bo'yoq paydo bo'lishining oldini olish uchun vaqti -vaqti bilan bo'shashgan niqobni tozalang yoki o'zgartiring. Men Metalcoat 27004 bo'yog'i keyingi niqob bilan olib tashlangan muammoni topdim, shuning uchun keyingi safar boshqa narsani ishlataman. Aslida, men pervanel pichog'ining orqa yuzasiga bo'yalgan quyuq metall kul rang uchun toza 27004 ishlatardim va uni niqoblamagunimcha, u ajoyib ko'rinardi: lenta bo'yoqning yaxshi qismini olib tashladi.
Sariq qanot WUS Colourcoats ACUS11 rangiga sariq rangda bo'yalgan, lekin uning ostidagi kulrang plastmassa tufayli yashil (to'q sariq rangdan tashqari) rangga ega bo'lgan. Sariqni boshqa ranglarga bo'yash juda qiyin va men uni oq bilan bo'yashim kerak edi. Xuddi shunday, men sariq rangga Humbrol 82 to'q sariq rangli astar qo'shib qo'ydim. Soya uchun aralashmaga binafsha yog'li bo'yoq, chuqurroq soyada esa ozgina xrom apelsin qo'shilgan.
Yashil yashil rang Humbrol akril 5002 bo'lib, quyuqroq soyali, doimiy och yashil, monestial yashil, sariq oxra va och qizil yog'li bo'yoqlardan aralashtirilgan.
Fuselaj atrofidagi qizil tasma, yuqori qanotdagi chevron va dvigatel qopqog'i (Townend halqasi) Revell SM301 qizil aralashmasi bilan to'q sariq qoplamali 82 bilan qoplangan. Qora qizil rangga Alizarin qo'shilgan. Niqob etarli emas edi va niqob olib tashlanganidan keyin korpusda qizil bug'lar paydo bo'ldi.
To'liq quriganidan so'ng, modelga etiketkalar qo'llanilishidan oldin Jonson ’s Klear spreyi berilgan. Bu juda yaxshi davom etdi, garchi oq rang biroz ko'rinadigan bo'lsa-da. Bu korpus atrofidagi qizil bantdagi yozuv bilan bog'liq muammo edi. Men buni keyinchalik oq rangga bo'yaganman. Dekal varag'ida muqobil variant sifatida foydalanish uchun qizil chiziq ustiga oldindan yozilgan harflar bor edi va orqaga qarab, men buni qirqib tashlashim kerak edi, shuning uchun menda ikki barobar qalinlikdagi oq etik bor edi.
Panel chiziqlari eski asboblar ostidagi oluklar singari chuqur o'yilgan va ularni fil suyagi qora, Paynes kulrang va titaniumli oq rangdagi yog'li bo'yoq aralashmasi yordamida bo'yash mumkin edi. Yashil quyruqda bo'lganlar Monestial Green va Scarlet Leyk aralashmasi edi (asosan quyuq yashil qizil qo'shib quyuqroq qilib qo'yilgan). Sariq binafsha rang bilan aralashtirilgan Rowney Gold Ocher yordamida bo'yalgan.
Bu E-String yordamida amalga oshirildi (yo'q, G-String emas). Men o'zimni Vinchesterdagi do'konlardan birida ishlatilgan gitara torlari sumkasini qirib tashladim va ularni ishlatishdan oldin ozgina nam va quruq holda tozalash kerak edi. Har bir simning uzunligi bir -biridan ajratgich yordamida o'lchandi va shu uzunlikdagi plyus 10 mm. Pianino simiga mos keladigan kesgichlardan foydalanganingizga ishonch hosil qiling, aks holda siz ularni buzasiz. Sizga bir xil uzunlikdagi uchta sim kerak bo'lishi mumkin, shuning uchun hammasini bir vaqtning o'zida bajaring.
Simning engil egri chizig'i bor edi va uni ishlatishdan oldin to'g'rilash kerak edi. Men bir uchining uchini 90 gradusgacha bukishni eng oson deb topdim. Keyin ushlagichni ushlagichning jag'iga soling va burish simni to'g'rilashga harakat qilganda uning burilishini to'xtatadi. Tayyor bo'lgandan keyin burilishni kesib oling.
Armatura uchun teshiklar plastmassaga to'g'ri burchak ostida burilgan bo'lishi kerak edi. Meniki kamdan -kam hollarda edi! Gitara simining bir uchida guruch halqasi bor va men ipni taxminan 40 mm masofada kesib tashladim. Bu tuynukning teshikdan tashqarida ekanligini aniqlash uchun teshikka urish uchun ishlatilgan.
Pense yordamida payvandlash simining uchini to'g'ri joyga qo'ying, shunda u teshikka qo'yganingizda to'g'ri yo'nalishda bo'ladi. Endi jarayonni boshqa uchida takrorlang. Har bir simni to'g'ri o'rnatish uchun juda ko'p sinov moslamalari kerak edi va agar sim uzilib qolsa va siz yana urinib ko'rsangiz, qaysi uchi qaysi teshikka tushishini bilmay qolsangiz, bu bezovtalikdir. Teshiklar kattaroq bo'lganda osonroq bo'lardi.
Men bir vaqtning o'zida bir tomonni bajarishni ma'qul ko'rdim, aks holda siz qo'lingizda simning portga yoki sancak tomoniga o'tishini unutasiz!
Simni yaxshilab joylashtirgandan so'ng, uning bir uchini havo korpusiga yopishtiring. Boshqa uchini teshikka kirgizib, tashqariga chiqishiga imkon bering, chunki mahkamlagichlar o'rnatilganda simlarni burish kerak bo'ladi.
Guruch simdan yasalgan ba'zi qavslar mavjud. Guruchga armatura simlari bilan mos kelish uchun kesmalar qo'yilgan. Bu ishni bajarish juda qiyin edi va ularni bir -biriga yopishtirib qo'yishdi, shuning uchun ular korpus bilan parallel edi. Ishlov berish moslamasi juda foydali bo'ldi, chunki men samolyotni burchakka egib, simlardagi ba'zi chiziqlarni muvozanatlay olgandim.
Men qiziqish qo'shish, kontekst, o'lchov/o'lchov hissi va inson elementini jalb qilish uchun o'z modellarimni displey bazasiga joylashtirishni yaxshi ko'raman (bu men uchun muhim omil). Boshqa tomondan, men bitta modelni tugatganimdan so'ng, men boshqa modelga o'tishni xohlayman (yoki odatda kuta olmadim va allaqachon boshlaganman!). Shunday qilib, siz qiziqarli displeyni xohlaysiz, lekin bunga ko'p vaqt sarflashni xohlamang: qiyin! Bu safar men noto'g'ri hisoblab chiqdim va tom ma'noda chegaradan chiqib ketdim!
E'tibor bering, buni qilish juda qiziq edi va yakuniy natija diqqatni tortadi, shuning uchun harakat qilishga arziydi.
"Boeing F4B" dagi "Squadron" kitobining boshlang'ich nuqtasi, CV -4 USS Ranger -ga o'rnatilgan tayanchda -4 versiyasi ko'rsatilgan. Mening Curtiss ushbu tashuvchidan samolyot sifatida tugagan, shuning uchun bu fotosurat qimmatli ma'lumot edi. Qo'shimcha ma'lumot olish uchun men turli kitoblarimni ko'rib chiqdim va shuni aytishim mumkinki, har bir kema sinfida aylanma konstruktsiya turlicha bo'lgan, chunki ularning barchasi boshqacha ko'rinardi. Darhaqiqat, men hatto sancakning yon tomonida joylashgan Ranger va bu port tarafdagidan tubdan farq qilardi!
Qiziqarli tomoni shundaki, men modelni tanlagan tayanch kemaning bu tomoniga o'rnatilgan yagona odamga o'xshaydi (rasmga qarang). Bu narsalarning g'oyasi samolyotlar uchun joy yaratishdir, chunki ulardan bittasini joyiga qo'yish qiyin. Balki bu baholash uchun prototipdir.
|Qopqog'i cho'kib ketgan va o'rnatishga tayyor.|
Men Internetda ma'lumot olish uchun so'rovlar joylashtirdim va bir oz daromad oldim, lekin "Squadron" dagi kitob asosiy bo'lib qolmoqda. Men rasmdagi ma'lumotni chizilgan rasmga o'tkazishdan boshladim. Miqyosni aniqlashda fotosuratda oldingi g'ildirakdan Boing dum g'ildiragigacha bo'lgan masofani o'lchash va 1/32 o'lchovli Boeing F4B o'lchovi bilan solishtirish orqali qaror qabul qilindi (menda “ qoziq qiling!). Bu menga rasm chizish uchun rasmdan olingan o'lchovlarni qo'llash uchun o'lchov omilini berdi. Uchish maydonchasi ostidagi podyumlarning chuqurligi fotosurat fonida ekipaj a'zolaridan aniqlandi: kemaning balandligi taxminan ko'krak darajasida. Podyumning shakli siz ko'rgan ikkita rasmga qarab baholandi, qolgan hamma narsa "tasavvur qilish" edi, yoki boshqa kemalarga xos xususiyatlarni (ilhomlangan taxminlar) yoki oddiy (ilhomlanmagan!) Taxminlarni o'z ichiga olgan. O'tmishda, menimcha, podiumni ko'tarib, uni 5 mm yoki undan torroq qilib qo'yishim kerak edi.
Uchish maydonchasini qo'llab-quvvatlaydigan struktura Plastruct bo'limlaridan iborat: I-nurlari, tees, burchaklar va amp kanallari. Ularning narxi taxminan 12 funt sterlingni tashkil etdi (asosan poezdlar va amp -samolyotlardan, lekin siz EMS -dan katta miqdorda arzonroq sotib olishingiz mumkin: agar siz ularning katalogini ko'rishni xohlasangiz, meni ko'ring). Bir xil ramkalar tuzildi va keyin bir -biriga bog'landi. Qismlar bir -biriga o'xshash bo'lishi uchun bo'laklarni ehtiyotkorlik bilan uzunlik va kvadrat shaklida kesib olish juda muhimdir.
|Bo'yoq uchun tayanchning asosiy tuzilishi.|
Qopqoqning o'zi plastmassadan qilingan. Men har doim tashqi shaklni kesishdan oldin turli xil ichki teshiklar va kesiklarni burg'ulab qo'yaman: bu materialning yorilish yoki buzilish ehtimolini kamaytiradi. Ikkita chiziq uchlariga yopishtirilgan va chizilgan nusxasi bir yuzga PVA elim bilan yopishtirilgan. Teshik markazlari burg'ulashdan oldin uchli asbob yordamida chizma orqali va plastmassaga chuqurlashtirilgan. Bu tugallangach va teshiklar fayl bilan shakllantirilgandan so'ng, shakllar Olfa-P to'sar yordamida chiziqlardan kesilgan va qirralari ariza bilan tozalangan. Har xil ichki tafsilotlar (masalan, samolyotni dumi g'ildiragi bilan sudrab yuradigan kabel uchun kasnaklar) va bo'shliqlar ichki yuzlari quyuq kul rangga bo'yalganidan keyin qo'shilgan.
Ish uchun muhim vositalar - bu tekis sirt (men qalin oynadan foydalanaman), hamma narsa bir tekis va bir tekisda ketishiga ishonch hosil qilish uchun kvadrat va po'latdan yasalgan qoidalarni o'rnatish.
|Parvoz kemasi joyida.|
Podium - bu teshikli plastinka, va men buning uchun elektr platasini (Vero platasi) ishlatardim, chunki u allaqachon mos teshik teshiklari bilan burg'ulashgan. Kengash kichik arra yordamida kesilgan va qirralari fayl bilan tozalangan. CV-8 USS Wasp outrigger-ning fotosuratlari ba'zi oyoq plastinkalarini mustahkamligini ko'rsatadi, shuning uchun men buni o'z modelim uchun ham, bitta yoki ikkita joyda qistirmali varaq yordamida qildim.
Stanchionlar ikki o'lchamli polistirolli quvurlardan yasalgan, qotib qolgan va ularni tayyorlash uchun uzoq vaqt kerak bo'lgan.
Birinchi rasmda simi g'altakchasi ko'rinib turibdi, va u noldan plastmassa va zaxira qutisidan bit va amp -boblar yordamida qilingan. Har bir g'altakning chetiga mustahkamlovchi sifatida mis simli halqa qo'shilgan. Shlangning o'zi qo'ng'iroq simidan o'ralgan edi.
Uchish maydonchasi bir necha qatlamlardan iborat. Yuqori qavat - yog'och shpon (men maun ishlatardim) va u str ” kenglikdagi chiziqlar bilan kesilgan bo'lib, o'sha paytda 8 va 8243x3 va 8243 o'lchamdagi haqiqiy taxtalarni ifodalagan (ular keyingi tashuvchilarda 6 va 8243 kengligida bo'lgan). Ular PVA elim yordamida ingichka kontrplak tasmasiga birdaniga to'qqizta yopishtirilgan. Har bir “plank ” orasiga qora kemaning iplari qo'yilgan bo'lib, ular haqiqiy palubadagi bo'shliqlarni yopish uchun ishlatilgan qoralangan qobiqni ifodalaydi. Bular tekis sirt ustida, elim yopishtirilganda tortilgan.
Keyin har bir 9 ta taxtadan kontrplakdan kesilgan va epoksi qilingan, elektron plataga o'xshash varaqqa (Jou uchun rahmat!) Parvoz maydonchasi uchun kerakli hajmga kesilgan. Har bir bo'sh joylar bir-biridan ajratilgan bo'lib, ular bog'langan temir yo'lning (AQShda Tom ’s Modelwork ’ s tomonidan taqdim etilgan) bo'laklari o'rtasida joylashtirilgan bo'lishi mumkin. Plyonkaning yuqori qismiga yopishtirishdan oldin, fotosurat jigarrang Humbrol emal 119 bilan qoplangan edi, bu esa chuqurlik berkitilgan kesmalar orqali yaxshi ko'rinib turardi. Bu vaqtda, uchish maydonchalari maunli dog 'bilan ishlangan va metall bog'lovchi relslar ham jigarrang rangda, ham zangda, ham USS Enterprise samolyot bortida olingan fotosuratga qaraganda aniq emas.
Tugallangan uchish maydonchasi konstruktsiyaga epoksi qilingan va uning chetiga plistarkali kanal yopishtirilgan (bu samolyot g'ildiraklari dam oladigan kanaldir va birinchi rasmga qarang). Elektron plataning yana bir tasmasi strukturaning orqa tomoniga epoksi qilingan va u bir nechta xususiyatlarga ega, shuning uchun uchish maydonchasi tayanch stendga o'rnatiladi, shunda u stoldan baland yoki balandroq bo'lib, samolyot juda osilgan holda osilgan bo'ladi. tomoni haqiqiy narsaga o'xshaydi. Olib tashlangan “in-laganda ”, kontrplak va qora bo'yoq yordamida, bunga erishildi.
Kichik odam teginish ….
Keyin mening e'tiborim insoniy qiziqishni qo'shishga qaratildi. 54 mmli haykalchalar 1/32 o'lchovli va Internetda qidiruvdan so'ng men www.planetfigure.com forumida yordam so'radim, u erda Airfix va#8220US Marines va#8221 ko'p qirrali raqamlarini aylantirish taklifi berildi va bu o'z samarasini berdi. yaxshi chiqdi.
Men o'zim xohlagan pozitsiyaga mos keladigan tana qismlarini tanlashdan boshladim: tasodifiy, temir yo'lni ushlab turuvchi va bir oyog'i zanjirli xavfsizlik chizig'ida. Bir oz topshirilgandan va sinovdan o'tkazilgandan so'ng, doka detallari olib tashlandi va shimlarning oyoqlari epoksi macun uchun tayyor bo'lib, qismlar bir -biriga yopishtirilgach qo'shiladi. Men "Magic-Sculp" ni chiqarib, rulon va taxtaga bir oz talk sepdim. Men, odatda, macunning besh yoki o'n daqiqaga o'tirishiga ruxsat beraman, shunda har bir dengizchi oyog'ini o'rab olish uchun dumaloq va kesuvchi chiziqlar qo'yaman, shunda yangi shimning tagini yarataman. Bu polistirolga ehtiyotkorlik bilan o'ralgan va yumaloq kokteyl tayog'i (talk bilan changlangan) yordamida shakllangan. Men, shuningdek, markaz uchun macun diskini va periferiya atrofidagi tasmani ishlatib, (kal) boshiga “Dixie Cup ” dengizchi shlyapasini qo'shdim. Men uni qotib qolishi uchun qoldirdim va matoga mayda -chuyda burmalarni qo'shish uchun yana macun qo'ydim: uni shaklga bosib, so'ngra skalpel pichog'i bilan iplar qo'shdim.
|USN ekipaji shakllanmoqda.|
Rasm endi rasmga tayyor edi (rasmga qarang). Men har doim rasmni ushlagichga qo'yaman, shuning uchun sirtga tegmaslik kerak edi, shuning uchun buni qabul qilish uchun dengizchining oyog'iga kichik teshik ochildi va bu suvni yuvish vositasi va tish cho'tkasini olib tashlash uchun yaxshilab ishqalandi. mog'or chiqarish agenti va barmoq izlari. Men oq Tamiya primer aerozolli purkagichidan foydalandim, lekin bu juda silliq bo'lib chiqdi, chunki bo'yoq olish uchun "tish" yo'q edi, shuning uchun men sirtga havo cho'tkasidan Humbrol Matt Coat spreyi va 50:50 aralashmasini berdim. of Humbrol Flesh 61 and white 34 over the face, hands and arms.
The flesh tone was mixed from blue and orange oil paint, lightened with white for highlights and burnt umber for shade. (Different blues and oranges give differing results, so it pays to experiment and record your findings). After drying overnight, deep shade was added from a mix of ultramarine and orange/red oil paints.
The shirt was painted using a mix of cobalt blue + orange + titanium white, with violet and Payne’s grey added for deeper shade. Aim to have five or so tones of the colour on the pallet, ranging from highlight to deep shade. I started by painting in the highlight colour to upward facing surfaces (such as the top of the shoulders and along the top edges of fabric folds where they would be open to daylight), then add the next tone to surfaces which are angled mid way upward. Don’t worry about blending into the first highlight. The third tone (which should be the base colour you want the shirt to be) is done next, followed by the fourth tone on angled down surfaces and the fifth tone for deep shade, such as the armpits, deep folds, etc. Apply the paint thinly and avoid putting “wet on wet” if you can. Once you have completed these stages, you may want to start blending. Use a dry brush for this (without any trace of turpentine or white spirit on it) and either use a fine brush and “dab” gently along the blend line or, as I did, take a big, soft brush and lightly stroke it over the shirt. Don’t do as everybody else does which is to overdo it and loose all your highlights and shade into one bland block of colour: work slowly and carefully, pause frequently to closely examine your work and stop before you go too far !
The same approach was taken with the trousers, this time with a mix of ultramarine and orange/red with titanium white to lighten. Once dried, the figure was given another spray of Matt Coat to remove the sheen that accompanies the use of blue oil paints.
Hair was blocked in with a mix of Van Dyke brown + Payne’s grey and highlighted with yellow ochre + titanium white added to the mix. The “Dixie Cup” hat is shaded white. This is one of the most difficult “colours” to shade. I like to use a violet-grey and used Payne’s grey + orange + white for the hat and socks. A final highlight of white was applied after this had dried.
|The painted crewman in place on the catwalk.|
Shoes and leather belt were blocked in with Humbrol grey 66 and shaded with Ivory black + Payne’s grey oil paint. I like to apply a strip of the shade colour along the centre of belts, leaving the lighter colour visible at the edges. Belt loops and a buckle were added once the shade colour had dried. The figure was epoxied in place on the catwalk.
Curtiss BF2C - History
The United States Navy and Curtiss felt that the F11C-2 possessed development potential, and the Navy decided to procure a variant with retractable landing gear. This variant, which still had the F11C-2's classic "Hawk" wood wing with its flat-bottomed Clark Y airfoil, was designated XF11C-3 by the Navy and Model 67 by Curtiss. The main gear retraction system was inspired by the Grover Loening-designed system on the Grumman XFF-1 prototype, and was manually operated.
The XF11C-3 was first delivered to the USN in May 1933, with a Wright R-1820-80 radial engine rated at 700 hp. Trials revealed a 17 mph increase in speed over the F11C-2, but the extra weight caused a decrease in maneuverability. The Navy felt the handling degradation was more than offset by the increase in speed, however. During testing the XF11C-3 had its wood-framed wing replaced by the metal-structured, biconvex, NACA 2212 airfoil wing, and soon after was redesignated XBF2C-1 (Model 67A) in keeping with the new Bomber-Fighter category.
Twenty-seven BF2C-1 were ordered by the U.S. Navy, with a raised rear turtleneck, a semi-enclosed cockpit, and a metal-framed lower wing. It was armed with two .30 caliber Browning machine guns and three hard points for 500 lb (230 kg) of external stores. The metal wings had a vibration frequency that was in harmony with the engine at cruising speed. In flight, the airplane seemed to be shaking itself to pieces, no matter the fixes tried by Curtiss and the Navy. Curtiss' final solution was an offer to re‑equip the airplanes with the wooden wing of the successful export variant, the Hawk III , but the Navy considered the airplane pass in light of coming designs . Delivered in October 1934, they were assigned to VB-5 on the aircraft carrier USS Ranger , but served only a few months before difficulties with the landing gear led to their withdrawal. In spite of its short service run many of the innovations developed for the Goshawk line found wide use in Navy aircraft for years to follow. They were the last Curtiss fighter accepted for service with the U.S. Navy.
The Hasagawa kit was originally released some time in the 1960s. Since that time it has been released several times, most recently in the early 2000s. The only thing changed were the decals and box art and it is quite well possible that the plastic parts were all molded back at the time of the original release. That said the kit has held up quite well detail wise, lacking only a better detailed cockpit to bring it up to today's standards. The kit I have, one of the early releases came in a top open tray type box made of thin cardboard that was common at the time. Inside the box all of the parts were enclosed in one large bag, this during the time when a lot of kits just had the parts tossed in a box. Unfortunately the clear parts were also in with the rest of the parts. The parts are molded in a silver gray color and since the aircraft is mostly fabric covered there is not a lot of surface detail. The fabric is quite subdued for the time and looks very nice. There are some panel lines around the cowling area that are metal and they are recessed and a bit larger than is the norm today but not excessively so.There are also some raised rivets in this same area but where they are located they should not be damaged by any seam work. There are also some raised fastener detail along the edges of some of the fabric panels. The non fabric areas have a glossy finish and the fabric areas have a matte finish. There is only a light amount of flash present and mold alignment is good and for the age of the kit. Mold separation lines are relatively fine. I did find a couple of sink marks on the upper wing where the alignment sockets for the lower wing pins are but they are very light and should be easy to fill if you are so inclined.
From a detail standpoint the control surfaces are all molded in the neutral position. The cockpit is pretty spartan, not that the real deal was all that complex. You get a floor, seat, joystick, seat support and a rear bulkhead. The instrument panel features raised instrument bezels with rudimentary dial detail inside them. There is some detail molded into one of the fuselage side walls and there is a very rudimentary pilot figure. The engine is pretty basic but should look reasonable painted up. There is a push rod spider for the front as well as a separate ignition ring. The ignition wiring is molded on the front of the cylinders but they are very light and some real wire would probably improve the appearance. The back side of the engine has an intake manifold, separate carborater, separate magnetos and accessory section. Left and right exhaust manifolds complete the engine. The cowling is in two pieces that fit around the engine. The instructions do include rigging instructions but I don't have a reference that I could use to tell how complete it is. There are marks on the wing and fuselage where to drill holes for the rigging but there is rigging from the upper cowl and I could not find any marks there. The cabane struts are molded integral to the upper cowl which should make assembly easier. The wheels are molded in halves and not weighted. There are four bombs and racks to mount under the lower wing and a drop tank for under the fuselage. Lets look at the parts.
The clear parts are rather thick and were reasonably clear but having been mixed in with the other parts left them a bit worse for wear, hopefully the scuffs will buff out.
The decals are old and yellowed although they were probably nice when new, not overly thick, in register and opaque with a flat finish. Even though they might bleach out when exposed to the sun for a few days I will make no attempt at using them. The sheet provides markings that would allow you to mark your plane as any of the ones in VB-5B based on the U.S. Ranger in 1934.
The instructions consists of a small booklet made from two legal sized pages printed on both sides and folded in half to create eight pages. The first page has history and specifications, the second page has a parts map, the next five pages have the assembly diagrams in twelve steps and the last page has painting and marking diagrams. Colors are called out in notes throughout the assembly steps and there are also black and white photos of both the completed model and prototype photos of things like the engine and landing gear. They are printed quite dark so are of limited use.
As I mentioned earlier the cockpit is pretty basic. Lone Star Models did a resin cockpit for it and it is shown below. You get a nice instrument panel, a seat with molded in seat belts (harnesses were not in use at this time) Left and right side walls with structure and other items molded in a new floor and front and rear bulkheads. Over the years I have seen some mixed quality with items from Lone Star but this set is one of the better ones with only a few defects and bubbles that need addressed. Lone Star sells only through their website.
The other major issue with the kits is decals. Fortunately Yellow wings did a set just for the BF2-C. Because of their limited use there are not a lot to chose from. This sheet has markings for two aircraft from the U.S.S. Ranger from 1935. The marking instructions are quite complete including a paint chart of recommended colors with FS numbers and references to Tamiya paints. The decals are printed by Microscale which means quality and these look the part being in register and opaque. The two smaller sheets were supplied but not sure of the purpose as I see no notation anywhere in the instructions referring to them.
While this kit has been around a while it still builds into a nice looking accurate model and until such time as a newer tool is released, it's the only game in town in this scale. The kit itself is quite simple and though I suspect due to it's age there might be some fit issues, other than the rigging it should be build able by modelers at most experience levels.
Here’s my 1/72 scale Special Hobby Curtiss BF2C-1, No. 5 for 2021. This aircraft was a development of the F11C-1 Goshawk with a more powerful engine, a metal-framed wing, and Grumman-style retractable landing gear. Interestingly, they made only 28 F11C Goshawks, and made only 28 BF2C-1s. Each equipped only one squadron, and the BF2C had a design flaw: Turns out the engine at cruise speed started a harmonic vibration in the metal-framed wing which started to disassemble itself. These aircraft lasted only a few months in the fleet before grounding. Later-built versions had a redesigned wing and were sold to foreign air arms such as China.
The kit is typically Special Hobby: good detail, nice resin engine and exhaust, and photoetched details. But assembly was difficult due to poor fit and instructions. But it’s done and fills another spot in my Navy fighter series.
ww2dbase The BF2C Goshawk (Model 67) carrier fighters were introduced into United States Navy service in Oct 1934 for use aboard USS Ranger. Their service aboard Ranger would only last a number of months as it was observed that their landing gears were not up to par, but generally the US Navy felt that the 27 purchased contributed to the development of the American aircraft carrier force.
ww2dbase Curtiss-Wright also built 137 additional examples for export. Designated Hawk III (Model 68) and Hawk IV (Model 79), the export variants were sold to China (102 aircraft), Thailand (24 aircraft also purchased license to build 50 examples, which was done between 1937 and 1939), Argentina (11 aircraft), and Turkey (1 aircraft). In Chinese service, Hawk III fighters saw combat against the generally superior Japanese aircraft in the mid- and late-1930s with relative success, and remained in service even after the introduction of modern Soviet and American fighters.
ww2dbase Manba: Vikipediya
Last Major Revision: Oct 2012
|Mashina||One Wright R-1820-04 Cyclone air-cooled radial engine rated at 770hp|
|Qurollanish||2x7.62mm Browning machine guns, 1x215kg bomb under fuselage or 2x53kg bombs under wings|
|Qanot maydoni||24.34 m²|
|Weight, Empty||1,509 kg|
|Weight, Maximum||2,065 kg|
|Maksimal tezlik||362 km/h|
|Speed, Cruising||253 km/h|
|Xizmat ko'rsatish shipi||8,230 m|
|Diapazon, Oddiy||1,167 km|
Sizga bu maqola yoqdimi yoki bu maqolani foydali deb topdingizmi? Agar shunday bo'lsa, iltimos, bizni Patreonda qo'llab -quvvatlang. Hatto oyiga 1 dollar ham uzoq yo'lni bosib o'tadi! Rahmat.
Category:Curtiss BF2C Goshawk
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The Curtiss BF2C Goshawk (Model 67) was a United States 1930s naval biplane aircraft that saw limited success and was part of a long line of Hawk Series airplanes made by the Curtiss Aeroplane and Motor Company for the American military, and for export as the Model 68 Hawk III.
This page contains all films, TV series, and video games that feature the Curtiss BF2C Goshawk.
Wings of Gold: U. S. Navy Carrier Aircraft 1935-1941
Curtiss BF2C Goshawks (US Navy Photo)
As the United States Navy built up its Carrier Force in the mid to late 1930s it continued to develop aircraft specifically designed to operate from aircraft carriers. It continued its development of fighter, dive bomber and torpedo bomber aircraft. In 1935 the Navy was operating the Grumman FF-1 biplane fighter which it had began using in 1933 and the Curtiss F11C and BF2C Goshawk. The Curtiss aircraft were built in fighter and bomber variants and while initial aircraft had an open cockpit and fixed landing gear later aircraft had an enclosed cockpit and retractable landing gear. They had top speed of 157 miles an hour and due to limited success and were retired from service by 1939. The Goshawk was operated against the Japanese by Nationalist China and also served in a number of air forces including Thailand where they were used against the French and Japanese.
Grumman FF-1 (US Navy Photo)
The Grumman FF-1 was a two-seater that had a enclosed cockpit with retractable landing gear and a top speed of 201 miles an hour. The FF-1 was faster than any naval aircraft of its era, a follow-on variant designated the SF-1 followed and 120 aircraft were built. Most of the operational aircraft served aboard the USS Lexington CV-2 in a fighter and scouting role. The FF-1 and SF-1 were withdrawn from first line service and placed with the reserve as well as being used in aviation training commands. The aircraft was manufactured under license by the Canadian Car and Foundry Company and served in the Canadian Air Force until 1942 as the Goblin and 40 of the Canadian aircraft were used by the Spanish Republican forces in the Spanish Civil War.
Grumman F2F-1 (US Navy Photo)
The FF-1/SF-1 was followed by the Grumman F2F a single-seat model with improved speed and maneuverability over is predecessors. 54 F2F’s were ordered in 1934 with the production models being delivered between April and August 1935. The aircraft were armed with 2 .30 machine guns mounted above the cowl and had a top speed of 231 miles an hour and maximum range of 985 miles. The aircraft would remain in service until they were replaced in 1939 with the Grumman F3F. However they remained in service as utility and training aircraft until retired from service toward the end of 1940.
Grumman F3F (US Navy Photo)
The Grumman F3F followed the F2F with 157 production models. It was more aerodynamic and had a more powerful engine that the F2F which enabled it to achieve a top speed of 264 miles an hour. It was operated by seven Navy and Marine Corps Squadrons and entered service in 1936 and would serve aboard carriers until replaced in late 1941. It continued with 117 aircraft being stationed at naval air stations and used for training until 1943.
F2A Brewster Buffalo (U.S. Navy Photo)
The first monoplane fighter developed and placed in service by the Navy was the F2A Brewster Buffalo. The Buffalo served with Navy and Marine Corps squadrons and was purchased by Great Britain for service in the Royal Australian and Royal New Zealand Air Forces which received 202 Buffalos. They would also serve with the Royal Navy. The Royal Netherlands Air Force received 144 most of which served in the East Indies. The final nation to receive the Buffalo was Finland which received 44 aircraft. Buffalo was underpowered and the addition of armor and added fuel capacity further diminished the speed and performance of the aircraft. The Navy placed its Buffalo’s in advanced training squadrons in early 1942 and one of the two Marine Corps squadrons (VMF-221) operated it at the Battle of Midway where they endured fearful losses at the hands of Japanese Zero fighters.
Brewster Buffalo 239s of the Finnish Air Force
Despite the lack of success in U. S. service the Buffalo performed in a heroic manner for the Finns destroying over 500 Soviet and German aircraft and producing 36 Buffalo Aces. The highest scorer was Captain Hans W. Wind with 39 of 75 victories flying a Buffalo. British Commonwealth and Dutch aircraft did not fare as well as the Finns as the tropical climate degraded the aircraft considerably.
Martin T4M over Lexington or Saratoga (US Navy Photo)
The Navy also developed aircraft for bombing missions as well as that could launch aerial torpedoes. The first aircraft built were dual purpose in that they could be used in level bombing and torpedo missions. In 1935 the primary aircraft of this type was the Martin T4M which had entered service in 1928 and replaced the Douglas DT and Martin T4M aircraft. The T4M was a biplane with a crew of three that had a maximum speed of 114 miles an hour (I have driven much fast than this on the German Autobahn but I digress) and it could carry a torpedo or bombs. 155 were purchased by the Navy and the Marine Corps between 1928 and 1931. They were operated from the Lexington and Saratoga until 1938 as no replacement aircraft offered enough improvements for the Navy to purchase and were instrumental in the development and demonstration of the capabilities of naval air power. They were finally replaced by the Douglas TBD Devastator.
TBD Devastator (US Navy Photo)
The TBD which first flew in 1935 entered service in 1937 and at the time was possibly the most modern naval aircraft in the world and was a revolutionary aircraft. It was the first monoplane widely used on carriers and was first all-metal naval aircraft. It was the first naval aircraft with a totally enclosed cockpit, the first with hydraulic powered folding wings. The TBD had crew of three and had a maximum speed of 206 miles an hour and carried a torpedo or up to 1500 pounds of bombs (3 x 500) or a 1000 pound bomb. 129 were built and served in all pre-war torpedo bombing squadrons based aboard the Lexington, Saratoga, Ranger, Yorktown, Enterprise va Shoxli with a limited number embarked aboard Arpa. The Devastator saw extensive service prior to the war which pushed many airframes to the end of their useful service life and by 1940 only about 100 were operational. They were still in service in 1942 as their replacement the TBF Avenger was not ready for service. They performed adequately against minor opposition at Coral Sea and in strikes against the Marshalls but the squadrons embarked on Yorktaun (VT3), Korxona (VT-6) and Shoxli (VT-8) were annihilated at Midway with only 6 of 41 surviving their uncoordinated attacks against the Japanese Carrier Strike Force. They were too slow, had poor maneuverability, insufficient armor and defensive armament. Only a few were able to launch their torpedoes as the Japanese Combat Air Patrol tore through them. Their sacrifice was not in vain as the Dive Bombers arrived facing no opposition and sank three of the four Japanese carriers getting the fourth later in the day. After Midway the remaining aircraft were withdrawn from active service in the Pacific. The Ranger’s VT-4 operated them until September 1942and Wasp’s VT-7 operated them in the Atlantic until she was transferred to the Pacific in July 1942. By 1944 all remaining aircraft had been scrapped.
Vought SBU Corsair
In the mid 1930s the Navy began to develop Scout and Dive Bombers for use in carrier scouting (VS) and bombing (VT) squadrons. The first of these aircraft types were biplanes. The Grumman SF-1 was used in a scouting and bombing role and was joined by the Vought SBU Corsair in 1935 and by 1937 both were being replaced by the Curtiss SBC Helldiver, a biplane with a 234 mile an hour maximum speed, retractable landing gear, enclosed cockpit which could carry a 1000 bomb.
Curtis SBC Helldiver
However the era of the biplane was drawing to a close and the Helldiver would be relegated to training squadrons based in Florida. Although they had a brief service career they were instrumental in develop dive bombing tactics at which the U.S. Navy excelled and which were copied by the German Luftwaffe with the Junkers JU-87 Stuka and the Japanese with the Aichi 99 Val naval dive bomber. 50 aircraft were transferred to the French and served aboard the carrier Bearn but due to the French surrender in June of 1940 saw no action and spent the war rotting in Martinique.
Vought SB2U Vindicator
The Helldiver’s were joined by the first monoplane dive bomber in U.S. service the Vought SBU2 Vindicator in 1937. The Vindicator was used by the Navy and the Marine Corps serving aboard the Lexington, Saratoga, Ranger va Arpa. They would remain in service until September 1942. The Marine aircraft equipped two squadrons VMSB 131 and VMSB-241, VMSB 241 suffered heavy casualties at Midway as the aircraft were underpowered and were limited to glide bombing missions. After they were taken out of the operational squadrons the Vindicator served as a training aircraft until retired in 1945. A French Naval Air Squadron was equipped with the Vindicator but they served ashore against the German invasion. Most were lost to enemy action. The Douglas SBD Dauntless was introduced in 1940 and 1941 but I will cover that aircraft in the World War II aircraft article that will follow this in a week or two.
These aircraft helped pave the way to aircraft that would be the mainstays of the Navy in the Second World War, aircraft with names such as Dauntless, Helldiver, Avenger, Hellcat and Corsair. Naval aviation earned its “wings of gold” in these early years wings that continue to shine in the 21 st Century.
Curtiss Model 68 Hawk III
The Hawk III that flew over the skies of Shanghai was an export model of the Curtiss BF2C-1 Goshawk, one of many aircraft in the Curtiss ‘Hawk’ series. The Goshawk was designed for a combined fighter/bomber role, hence the ‘BF’ designation (for Bomber-Fighter). The design was the last Curtiss fighter to be accepted for service by the US Navy. The version exported to the ROCAF was officially the Model 68, but in service in China it was more commonly known as the Hawk III.
An evolution of previous designs, the Hawk III was a biplane with retractable landing gear (hand-cranked from the cockpit), powered by a 770hp Wright R-1820 engine. Armament consisted of a pair of .30cal machine guns and a total of 500lb of bombs.
The Hawk III served as a multi-purpose aircraft in Nationalist Chinese Air Force, acting as both a bomber and the primary ROCAF fighter during the initial phase of the Sino-Japanese War in 1937. It was flown by some of the most famous Chinese aces of the war such as Kao Chi-hang and John Wong. It bore the brunt of Japanese attacks on Shanghai and Nanking in the first few months of fighting, but the Hawk force was badly worn down during these aerial battles.
The Hawk III was gradually replaced by Soviet fighter types as the pre-war ROCAF was ground down, and Russian-built I-15 and I-16 types were imported to rebuild it.
Special Hobby 1/72 Curtiss BF2C-1 Hawk (2011)
Feb 20, 2013 #1 2013-02-20T23:08Relatively new from Special Hobby is a range of early Curtiss Hawk kits and I was chuffed to get one, to compliment one of their early USN Grummans.The detail consists of very fine engraving and, as you’d expect, the plastic was free of flash and ejector pin marks, suggesting that someone, somewhere, employs a good QC.Alongside the plastic, there are nice resin pieces for the engine, exhaust and a couple of intakes and another ‘useful’ sheet of photoetch, with some rather tiny details included.The two transparencies are nice and clear and the decal sheet was well printed, with an additional sheet correcting some errors with the main sheet. Again…QC was on the ball.
Feb 20, 2013 #2 2013-02-20T23:13
Now, for all my earlier praise and expectation of a trouble-free build, I was soon pulled up sharply, once I tried to fit the cockpit assembly to the fuselage side. The seat, suitably embellished with photoetched belts and side braces, was too wide by a significant margin!
Whilst this was easy enough to fix, attaching the rear bulkhead separately and cutting away some of the internal bodywork, I got to wondering if the manufacturers ever build their kits before sending them out to us lucky modellers.
The instrument panel uses one of those pieces of film for the dials, which, in spite of me painting the background white, promptly disappeared once in place. Never mind…the panel itself is very nice and is suitably complimented by the ‘etched pedal assembly
Feb 20, 2013 #3 2013-02-20T23:16
Following my simple modification, the fuselage halves went together and I was a Happy Bunny once again.
So happy, in fact, I went and scored the tail control surfaces, to create some animation.
At this point, I added the photoetch control links, some of which were miniscule and promptly forgot to take a nice photo for you all. Kechirasiz. This was partly down to me rushing on to play with the engine and exhaust pieces, which are truly gorgeous bits of resin, just begging for washes and dry-brushing. For those of you with your own kit to build, take care in placing the engine centrally to the front of the fuselage and make sure you match your placement of the pipes to the diagram in the instruction sheet.
Feb 20, 2013 #4 2013-02-20T23:17
I added the lower wings next and, whilst pleased with the Wallace & Gromit look of the aircraft, I bit the bullet and moved on to make it a biplane.
The struts are quite fine and care was needed to clean off the sprue attachment points. No pins or locating holes were present, although there were small markings on the wings, showing me where, exactly, to place the struts. Was wasn’t clear was the exact angle to slant the struts, when viewed from the front.
I decided to start with the cabanes, attached to the upper wing and angled inwards. Using trial and error and my favourite superglue gel, I was able to get them exactly right, before setting everything solid with some Zipkicker accelerator.
Next, I added the main struts to the lower wings, with them canted slightly outwards. Adding the upper wing to its proper position, forced the main struts outwards and, when everything was level, more Zipkicker set everything solid.
(Be careful placing the struts, as they do have different tops and bottoms).
Call it luck or good management, the tops of the struts actually matched the location points marked on the underside of the upper wing. Marvellous!
I’m no stranger to biplanes and so was able to cope well enough. That said, surely a simple head-on diagram would’ve been useful, perhaps with some angles attached?
Anyways, onwards and upwards and I spent half an hour looking for a piece that didn’t exist. The instructions indicate a conical lamp, to fit under the port wing. However, only the lens is supplied, so I ended up scratching the missing piece from sprue, for the lens to sit on.
Feb 20, 2013 #5 2013-02-20T23:20
The rest of the build was a joy to experience, (I’m easily pleased) and, soon enough, I got to slap paint about.
Interwar USN aircraft tended to be quite colourful and this example was no exception. Although each of the 4 decal options are for aircraft of VB-5B, assigned to the USS Ranger, each has its own colour ahead of the light green tail, all set off against aluminium. I opted for BF2C-1, Bu.no. 9587, pilot Commander JD Barner, First Section of VB-5B, USS Ranger, 1935.
(JD Barner was promoted to USN Captain and in 1944, he commanded the USS Shangri-La).
Paints used were all Humbrol enamels, with the aluminium being Humbrol Metalcote Aluminium. Yellow was H154, red was H19 and the green was H2. A coat of Klear sealed it all in and allowed me to handle the silver-painted model without mess and prepared the surfaces for decaling.
Before decaling, I took another deep breath and rigged up, using a combination of Aeroclub rigging thread, superglue gel and Zipkicker. The Hawk has double-rigging and, as you can see, I require more practice. That said, the wires are definitely more in parallel than the photos imply.
The decals took a little care to apply, as they were very thin and relatively easy to stretch and crease, but colours were good, they were in register and I’ve now got a BF2C-1 Hawk on my shelf.
This kit has a few niggles and, if I’m honest, some minor challenges in the building department. As a consequence, I wouldn’t recommend it to an absolute beginner, but I would recommend it to everyone else.
Curtiss BF2C - History
Hasegawa’s “Golden Age” 1/32 kits – the F4B-4, P-12E, P-26A and BF2C-1 – stand the test of time. They are outline accurate with surface detail that is far more representative of the real thing than what would be the case had they been designed and released in the past 20 years. The one thing they all lacked was good decals, a problem that Yellow Wings Decals solved, with great sheets for each. The last one they did was for the BF2C-1, which allowed me to finish a model that had sat in the box half completed. waiting for the new decals.
The Hawk series exemplifies Curtiss’ design philosophy, and explains why they aren’t building airplanes any more. The wings and tail and essential fuselage frame structure of the BF2C-1. produced in 1935 as the last of the Hawks, was the exact same as the P-1 Hawk of 1925 (other than Curtiss made the mistake of making these wings with a metal structure rather than the traditional wood, and the metal structure had a harmonic frequency that matched that of the R-985 engine at cruise – the airplane felt like it was shaking itself to death, which it was). Even the adoption of Grumman’s gear retraction system didn’t improve things enough to keep up. The name “Helldiver” was a generic PR application to all Curtiss’ dive bomber designs from the F8C to the SB2C.
Curtiss’ philosophy of minimum-risk incremental, evolutionary changes worked in the 1920s and early 1930s, but once the revolution in aircraft design came in 1934, even such a good airframe as the P-36 – one of the best of those revolutionary airframes of 1934 – couldn’t keep up with the changes, when added incrementally, producing the second rate P-40, while Curtiss’ attempts at more meaningful development (the P-46) suffered from the inability to completely throw away what had gone before. Had the P-36 had an engine as good as the airframe, as did the Spitfire and Hurricane, things might have been different. But the Curtiss-Wright Corporation – the biggest aviation company in America – didn’t want their airplane designs using engines that didn’t come from their Wright engine company, or from fellow monopoly/trust United Aircraft’s Pratt and Whitney. When they finally used GM’s Allison (a license design of the Hispano Suiza 12Y series), they were two years behind the times. Corporations always choose the known over the new, since they can’t be sure the new will sell (which is why rock ‘n’ roll has been around 40 years past its obsolescence, but I digress).
Mike West has made a resin cockpit for this now, which would obviate the need to put a pilot in the cockpit to hide what isn’t there, as I did here. he’s also coming out with a resin conversion of this kit to the earlier F11C-2/BFC-2, which I definitely want to get hold of.